How I Learned the Burnham Reset Button Location (The Hard Way)
When I first started servicing Burnham gas boilers back in 2017, I assumed the reset button was in the same spot on every model. I figured it would be obvious—big red button, right on the front panel. That assumption cost me an entire afternoon once.
I was at a customer's house, their Burnham Series 2 had locked out. I'm standing there, pressing every button on the front control board. Nothing. The homeowner is watching me. I'm sweating. I finally call my old boss, and he just says: 'Did you check the rollout switch reset?'
The rollout switch on that specific model had a tiny reset button tucked under the burner access panel. Not on the front. Not marked clearly. Just a little red nub that needed a paperclip to reach. I felt like an idiot. That's when I started keeping a log of reset button locations for every Burnham model I touched.
Here's what I've found (and you can steal this):
- Burnham Series 2 / ES2: Reset button is on the gas valve, usually a red or black button near the bottom of the valve body. Not on the front panel.
- Burnham IN5 / IN8 (gas fired, older models): Reset is on the primary control module (Honeywell or similar). You'll see a RESET button you have to hold down for 30-60 seconds.
- Burnham Revolution: The flame rollout switch reset is a manual button on top of the burner. If there's no visible reset, the rollout switch may need to be replaced.
- Burnham Alpine (condensing): Control board reset is behind the front access panel. If the boiler shows an error code, locate the specific lockout code in the manual—some resets require power cycling.
The biggest mistake I see? People press the reset button once, it doesn't fire, and they give up. On many Burnham models, you need to hold the reset for 30+ seconds to purge the system. Quick press does nothing.
I've documented 47 lockout events over 18 months using this checklist. Before I had it, I'd waste 20 minutes per call just hunting for the button. Now it's under 30 seconds.
"My experience is based on about 200 service calls across Burnham's gas boiler lineup (Series 2, ES2, IN5, IN8, Revolution, Alpine). If you're working with a different brand, your reset button location will differ significantly."
Burnham Gas Boilers vs Heat Pumps: The Setup That Everyone Gets Wrong
Here's the thing: most comparison articles tell you heat pumps are great for efficiency and gas boilers are great for cold weather. That's not wrong, but it's also not helpful. The real difference isn't the weather—it's the certainty versus adaptability trade-off.
Let me explain using a specific scenario that cost me $890 in rework.
In September 2022, I installed a mid-range heat pump for a customer who had a 15-year-old Burnham gas boiler as backup. The idea was smart: heat pump for shoulder seasons, gas boiler for deep freezes. In practice, the installation failed because I didn't account for the interlock between the two systems correctly. The heat pump would run fine until the outdoor temp hit 25°F. Then the system tried to fire the boiler, but the control board wasn't set up to communicate with the Burnham's existing thermostat. The boiler cut in, then locked out because the water temp was already high from the heat pump. A proper interlacing kit (about $450) plus two return trips = $890 in wasted budget.
That's when I learned: a hybrid system isn't "plug and play." It requires careful planning.
So let's do an honest comparison across the dimensions that actually matter in the field:
Dimension 1: Installation Complexity (Gas Boiler Wins)
A standard Burnham gas boiler replacement? Straightforward. Gas line, water lines, flue, thermostat. Most experienced HVAC techs can swap out a Series 2 in a day. The brand is widely distributed, parts are available from every supply house.
A heat pump? You need a good electrical contractor. The line set needs to be sized, evacuated, vacuum tested. The outdoor unit needs a pad. The indoor air handler needs ductwork modifications. If the existing system is a boiler (hot water), you're adding an air handler system entirely—that's a new skill set.
Verdict: If your house already has a Burnham boiler and you just need heat, replacing it with a new gas boiler is about 40% less install time than switching to a heat pump. My logbook shows 12 gas boiler swaps averaging 6.2 hours labor, versus 4 heat pump retrofits averaging 14 hours labor.
Dimension 2: Operating Cost (Depends on Your Region, Not What You Think)
Everything I'd read said heat pumps are cheaper to run. In practice, that's only true if your electricity price per BTU is lower than your gas price per BTU. I live in the Northeast where gas is cheap relative to electricity. In Q1 2024, I tracked the actual utility bills for two comparable homes:
- Home A (Burnham gas boiler): $248 average monthly heating cost (Dec-Feb)
- Home B (Heat pump, COP ~3.0): $312 average monthly heating cost (Dec-Feb)
That's right—the heat pump cost more in my region. The homeowner was upset. I had told them the installation cost would be higher but the operating cost would save money over time. I was wrong for that specific region.
Verdict: Gas can still beat heat pumps on operating cost in gas-heavy markets. Do not assume heat pumps are cheaper. Do the math for your zip code.
Dimension 3: Reliability in Extreme Conditions (Burnham Gas Wins in Freezing Temps)
The conventional wisdom is that heat pumps can handle cold weather with modern cold-climate models. My experience with both systems during the January 2024 polar vortex (ambient temp -8°F) suggests otherwise. The three cold-climate heat pumps I had running all dropped to COP around 1.5 at those temps and two of them had defrost cycles that lasted 15+ minutes. The Burnham gas boilers? Ran continuously, held 140°F supply temp, no issues.
Verdict: For homes in areas that see below-freezing temps for weeks at a time, a gas boiler (Burnham or equivalent) is objectively more reliable for primary heating.
When Should You Switch from a Burnham Gas Boiler to a Heat Pump?
Based on my seven years of making mistakes, here are the situations where switching makes sense—and where it doesn't.
Switch to a heat pump if:
- You also need air conditioning (one system replaces two).
- Your electricity prices are significantly lower than gas.
- Your home has existing ductwork OR you're OK with mini-splits.
- You're building new construction (easier to design for a heat pump).
- You have a strong preference for decarbonization and the upfront cost isn't a barrier.
Keep your Burnham gas boiler if:
- You live in a cold climate (zone 5 or colder).
- Your gas prices are already low.
- You don't need AC or have a separate AC system.
- You want certainty of performance—gas boilers don't lose capacity when it's cold.
- You're on a tight budget. Gas boiler replacement is cheaper upfront.
Final Reality: What I Wish I'd Known
I don't have hard data on the industry-wide failure rate of hybrid systems, but based on my sample of 12 hybrid installs (both planned and emergency), about 7 of them required at least one service call in the first year for control board issues. That's a 58% failure rate in my limited experience. I'd love to see a larger study, but I can tell you anecdotally: the integration between gas boiler and heat pump is the single most common source of problems.
If you already own a Burnham boiler in good condition, don't rush to rip it out. The gas boiler is a workhorse. Heat pumps have advantages, but the gas boiler's simplicity and reliability are real—even in 2025.
Pricing note: Burnham Series 2 boiler replacement costs vary dramatically by region. I quoted a typical residential replacement at $4,200 in September 2024 for a customer in upstate NY. Verify current pricing at Burnham's authorized distributors as pricing changes seasonally and by market.
And one more thing: the reset button on a Burnham Series 2 ES2? It's on the Honeywell SmartValve—press and hold for 60 seconds. Not on the side panel. Not on the gas valve. On the SmartValve module. Save yourself the strip-search.
